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Do I need to harvest my 'early' cabbage all at the ...

Do I need to harvest my 'early' cabbage all at the same time, or may I just pick as I need. Reason being, my first 2 cabbages were incredibly sweet, but with the 3 I'm noticing a slightly bitter aftertaste. This is in less than a week. I also noticed a greyness in some of the veins. The heads are not tight compact, like store bought, but looser. I planted them around the end of May, I'm in Canada and the weather is hot and humid at the moment. Thanks, Lizzie Lizard


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13 thumbs up

Think of the solution, not the problem.

--Zedd

Cut those heads now!  As soon as hot weather sets in, cabbage will start to turn bitter, and soon after that they will bolt, meaning that the heads will open, a stalk will shoot up from the middle and the plant will go to seed. 

You can plant earlier next year.  All cole crops, including cabbage, can survive mild frost.  In fact, it usually improves the flavor.  Cabbage should go out about a month before the last frost in spring, which for your area means you can put them out in mid April.  If you want a fall crop, it should go out about 3 months before the first frost, meaning about the beginning of July.  (Man, that sounds weird.  Where I live my spring cabbage goes out the first of February, and I can't put out my fall crop until the first of September...)


Posted 2 months ago ( permalink )
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Thanks Drahkk!  Just a little on the late side, my chickens are enjoying them thouLaughing.  So now I'll know for next year.   Our nurseries here sell all the vegies at the same time and so I planted my late cabbages at the same time.  I guess I'll just have to keep an eye on them and hope they'll be good even without a frost - I thought it just meant they took longer to mature.Embarassed


Posted 2 months ago ( permalink )
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13 thumbs up

Think of the solution, not the problem.

--Zedd

Yeah, sorry about my timing.  The night I answered you was actually the night I discovered Yedda.  I realized afterwards how old your question was, and that I was probably too late.  Oh well; as you said, there's always next year!  I consider gardening to be one continuous experiment anyway.  I learn more every year, and am glad to share.

If you're buying nursery transplants, you did right to go ahead and put them out as they don't need to get too big before you plant them.  Late, overly large transplants often do not form good heads.  If you'd like to start your own to plant when you like, it's not too difficult.  Just plant them in seedling trays about 8 weeks before you want to put them out.  The seed will sprout in 7-14 days at room temperature, at which point you just move them to full sun and keep them watered.

If you want to try something a little different next year, there are a few companion planting tricks you can try.  Dill planted near cabbage improves both its growth and health.  You can also plant oregano nearby, (or just use cuttings from anything in the mint family as a mulch,) to repel cabbage moths, ants, and aphids.  And not many people know this, but a little bit of any lawn fertilizer (they're all high in nitrogen) works wonders for a leafy plant like cabbage!


Posted 1 month ago ( permalink )
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I would like to increase the size of my garden next year.  We have so many rocks in this area I don't know if I will physically be able to.  I never did get an herb garden in Embarassed, so that's a good idea near the cabbages. Thanks.  My garden is so crowded, with just as many weeds and others.  We had a beautiful spring, a wet summer and now a beautiful fall coming up.  The wet summer was the killer, my weeds were taller than me. 

I doubt I will try seedlings.  I've never made but one season of successful transplants, either flowers or vegies.  I never time it right and usually end up with a mess of dead strings.   Thanks for your help and ideas, I really appreciate it!


Posted 1 month ago ( permalink )
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13 thumbs up

Think of the solution, not the problem.

--Zedd

I must confess, the only things I ever grow my own transplants for are the cole crops, which my local nursery never brings out early enough.  It can be a pain, and for most things is not usually worth it.  The trick is knowing which ones to buy transplants for and which ones to direct seed.  Legumes, like peas and beans, gourds, like melons, squash, zucchini, and cucumbers, and corn will do better if direct seeded in your garden.  Strawberries will take 3 years to produce fruit if you start them from seed; you should always buy plants.  Likewise, everything in the nightshade family, including tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant, take far too long to germinate and grow to decent transplant size; I always buy plants. Most annual herbs like dill and basil can be started either way with little ill effect.  Your growing season is shorter than mine; you'd probably be better off getting nursery plants for them as well.

Any aromatic herb will help keep the insect predators away, so just spread them here and there throughout your garden.  Basil and oregano are especially good at this.  There is only one combination you should avoid:  don't put dill too close to your tomatoes.  Dill attracts the tomato hornworm. Also, be careful where you plant anything in the mint family as most of them are very invasive and have a tendency to take over.  I love the smell when I hit my peppermint patch with the weed eater, but I wouldn't want it in my garden.  Cuttings yes, as a mulch, to keep the bugs down, but the live plant is not welcome.  The only non-invasive mint I know of is basil.  Oregano is fairly safe, too.  It creeps and spreads slowly, but is easier to control than peppermint, spearmint, or catnip.

If you want more produce from your garden in less space with less work, you should look into intensive gardening.  Two books have really helped me.  Square Foot Gardening, by Mel Bartholomew, and Cubed Foot Gardening by Christopher O. Bird.  I use a combination of their two methods, plus a few tricks of my own.  Mel tells you how to create cheap, effective, strong, long lasting trellises for all your vine crops, and does an excellent job of explaining how different crops grow and how to plan your garden to make the most of your space and time.  However, the soil mixture he wants you to buy can get outlandishly expensive very quickly unless you are planning a very small garden.  Also, some of his plant spacings are simply too close together if you use anything but his soil mixture.  Chris's soil mixture is much more reasonably priced and readily available, and his plant spacings are better.  He also goes into more detail on his own methods of growing some specific crops that I otherwise might never have tried. 

Shifting from single row gardening to raised bed intensive gardening will seem weird, especially if you've been doing it the old way a long time, but you'll never regret it.  It takes a little money and a little time and effort to set it up, but once it is there, you never have to redo it and keeping up with your garden during the growing season becomes almost laughably easy.  With my old single row garden, I could never keep up with it.  The weeds took over, my corn was tiny, I'd barely get enough beans to make a meal, and I'd end up mowing the whole thing down out of disgust halfway through the summer.  Now I eat fresh all season, put up enough to last the winter, and still have plenty to give away.  And it's practically work free.  A lot of days all I do is walk out there, give it a little water, pick whatever is ripe, and go back in.


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