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Wilting tomato plants

Hello, Help! My three 5 foot potted tomato plants just drooped one day. One came back, another is fighting and the other does not look like it is not going to make it. All have alot of tomatoes. My first thought is I over fertilized them with Miracle Grow. Is there anything I can do to save them? What makes it interesting is I am growing them on a balcony with no sun only after 4pm. It is around 80 to 90 degrees. I have pulled the worst one out of the direct afternoon sun.There is no sign of infection just green droppy leaves. Thank you, Michelle noldan@comcast.net


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Possible causes of wilting include lack of water, vascular wilts, tomato spotted wilt virus, walnut toxicity, or stalk borers.

  • Lack of Water
    Tomato plants require approximately 1 inch of water per week. Plants may wilt badly when soils are dry, but will revive rapidly when they are watered. A thorough watering once a week during hot, dry weather should be sufficient. Apply water directly to the soil around the base of the plants with a garden or soaker hose. If an overhead sprinkler is used to water the tomatoes, water the plants in the morning to reduce foliar disease problems. Fortunately, generous rains during the past two weeks have alleviated drought problems in most Iowa gardens.
  • Vascular Wilts
    The initial symptoms of Verticillium and Fusarium wilts are wilting of the plant leaves during the heat of the day. Affected plants often recover in the evening or overnight. Gradually, however, the wilting becomes progressively worse and many plants eventually die.Verticillium and Fusarium wilts are caused by soil-borne fungi that invade tomato plants through injured roots. The fungi spread into the water-conducting tissue (xylem) in the stem and block the flow of water to the foliage. Foliage of affected plants turns yellow, then wilts and dies. A cut through the lower stem of a dead plant often reveals a brownish discoloration of the vascular tissue.There is nothing that can be done for plants that have Verticillium or Fusarium wilts. Plants that die should be removed and destroyed. Crop rotation is of limited value as the vascular wilt fungi may survive in the soil for several years. The use of resistant varieties is the most practical way for home gardeners to prevent losses due to wilts. Resistant varieties may become infected but many plants survive and produce an acceptable crop. Resistant varieties are available in seed catalogs and at garden centers. The letters V and F following the variety name in seed catalogs or on seed packets denote varieties that are resistant to Verticillium and Fusarium wilts. Wilt resistant tomato varieties that perform well in Iowa include Jetstar, Better Boy, Burpee VF, and Celebrity.At this time, the vascular wilts are thought to be responsible for most cases of wilting tomatoes in Iowa.
  • Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus
    Tomato spotted wilt virus (TSWV) can cause stunting, wilting, bronzing of foliage, and brown or green rings on fruit. A virus disease, TSWV can infect plants in the greenhouse or in the field. Infected plants cannot be cured and should be removed from the garden. No tomato varieties are resistant to tomato spotted wilt virus.
  • Walnut Toxicity
    Black walnut trees produce a toxic material (juglone) that can injure and kill solanaceous crops (tomatoes, potatoes, peppers and eggplant) and other juglone-sensitive vegetables in the garden. Symptoms of walnut toxicity include stunted growth, yellowing and wilting of foliage, and death of susceptible plants. Juglone is present in all parts of the black walnut tree (fruits, leaves, branches and roots). The sources of juglone in the soil include both living and decaying plant material. Rain droplets leach juglone from the buds, leaves, and twigs. The decomposition of leaves and other plant debris by soil microorganisms also releases juglone. Living roots exude juglone into the surrounding soil. Generally, the greatest concentration of juglone in the soil exists within the dripline of walnut trees. Nothing can be done to save juglone-damaged tomato plants. Simply remove and destroy dead plants. Gardeners who have large walnut trees near their gardens should consider alternate sites. If alternate sites are unavailable, plant tomatoes and other susceptible plants 20 to 25 feet beyond the dripline of walnut trees to minimize walnut toxicity problems. Corn, beans, onions, beets, and carrots are tolerant of juglone and can be planted closer to walnut trees provided the area receives sufficient sunlight. Walnut trees that are 75 to 100 feet from the garden shouldn't be a big threat to tomatoes and other juglone-sensitive vegetables.
  • Stalk Borer
    The stalk borer is an insect pest that attacks a wide variety of plants including tomatoes. The larva (caterpillar) bores into the stem and tunnels inside the stalk. (The entrance hole is small and often difficult to locate). Affected plants wilt and often die. However, stalk borer damaged plants that are given good care may survive. The stalk borer is a purple and cream striped caterpillar with a solid purple band around its body 1/3 of the way back from its head. It is an early season pest that moves from tall grassy weeds and occasionally attacks tomatoes, potatoes, and peppers in the vegetable garden. An individual stalk borer may damage more than 1 tomato plant. The adult is an inconspicuous grayish brown moth. Tomato plants that die should be pulled and destroyed. The destruction of the plants may also kill the stalk borer. Cutting or mowing tall weedy areas around vegetable gardens may also help control the pest. Stalk borers cannot be effectively controlled with insecticides.

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The news of vascular wilt is death for my tomato plants . . . do I watch them die or remove them . . . that's the decision . . . Thank you for your timely response . . . Michelle


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Thank you for being available to answer questions. Looking at my balcony my eyes rested on the 6ft. Fishtail Palm that is healthy. I believe the tomatoes are suffering from Fusarium fungi. Reading about palms they can become infected by the same fungi. I have trimmed the palm with the same shears that I trimmed (6 to 8 trims) the tomato plants. Is my palm doomed? Should I distroy the 3 tomato plants? The fruit is green and 2" to 3" diameter will it rippen on its own? Should they be distroyed also?


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Glad to learn that a witled plant from a lack of water/dry soil will recover.  We've been having quite the dry spell in Denver with tempertures close to 100, and I forgot to water the plant for 2 days.  Today I thought it was over when I walked outside and saw the sad looking wilted leaves.  I watered it and pulled it out of the direct sun.  I will water again tonight after dusk.  Hopefully tomorrow I will be happily surprised if the wilted leaves get crispy again.  Thanks for giving me some hope.


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Hi,
   all of the above answers are great; since I've planted most of my tomatoes in 5 gallon buckets to help prevent fire ants on the plants, I've noticed the tomatoes in these buckets require watering much more than those I planted in the ground. This was my first year trying tomatoes in buckets, and outside of the extra watering they surely require, they've done well. I used 3/4" pvc pipe driven to the bottom of each bucket to tie up the plants to and also use the top open end of the pvc pipe to apply water to the plant. I cross drilled some small holes through the bottom 12 inches or more of each pvc support pipe and that helps distribute the water to all levels of the root system better than the pvc pipe without the holes, but it is time consuming. I also put 2 liter drink bottles upside down ( usually one per 5 gallon bucket after cutting the bottom ring off to put the water in ) and this acts as a slow release water reservoir that I've found to work well. Of course, a 3 liter bottle works good and supplies water longer, but in a 5 gallon bucket, the space is limited, so I generally use the 2 liter bottles. I can water my plants in 5 gallon buckets in the early am and if I don't put water in the 2 liter bottle reservoirs, the plants will usually be wilted by 5pm if its a hot day ( and here in North Carolina, its almost always hot this time of year ) and I have to water heavy again and generally fill up the 2 liter drink bottles with water also. When you plant water loving plants like tomatoes in buckets, you must plant to water much more often and keep a constant check on them; some find this too much trouble, but I plan to plant most of my tomatoes in buckets next year. Also, by the plants being in limited space, I use the generic miracle grow plant food for vegetables and dissolve it in hot water and then let it cool before putting it in the water reservoirs. The liquid fertilizer has made a lot of improvement over the slow release fertilizer I mixed in with the soil when I planted the tomatoes in the 5 gallon buckets. Best of luck and hope this helps. Mark Savage, certified master gardner % Savage Gardens,Lumberton, NC


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