My guess is that it has more to do with culture, and in particular aesthetics, than with food. There are plenty of Bantu tribes in warm climes of Africa that are very tall on average, and gave rise to most of the American NBA players. These people lived right alongside far shorter people.
I believe that whereas in one culture tallness would be admired and the tall person got to have more sex partners, in another culture overly tall people would be described as lanky, whereas shorter people are seen as athletic and robust (with the consequent payoff in sex partners). That's how I think different peoples got different looks. Neither blond hair nor black skin offer any real advantage.
The interesting thing with this theory, is that in most cultures most people eventually get married. So you wouldn't expect a "sexy" attribute to influence a person's ability to pass their genes (a non-sexy woman would just marry someone humbler - she would not be excluded from reproducing)
So how would a "sexy" gene actually make a difference? I guess it is by giving them a better chance of pre-marital and adulterous affairs. Not a pleasant thought.