1980 Porsche 924 turbo

The coil can be tested by putting the + battery to the + terminal & tapping the - terminal to the - battery post. Each tap should produce a spark to jump accross a plug held to ground & attached to the center coil wire terminal. It should be Blue Hot & audiably "Snappy". Use a test light to make sure U are getting power to the coil. It may be on a "Fuse Link" that just looks regular wire until it "Blows Open".   John

Module is definite suspect. Where are U located? Is it starting to get hot outside? Here in the Sonoran Desert tomorrom it will be 101 F. & that's when Modules start to Dump! Ford in 70's played games with 5 different "Heat Ranges" of Modules & the only one that worked was coded "Blue" in color of the plug. I'll see if I can find out more on that for U. Also, Un-plug all the connectors & clean with a "Contact Cleaner" then use an "Electrical Grease (Dialectric)" on them. I have seen this cure Lots of Problems.   John

As I say ck. the wiring, & wiggle & jiggle everything. The Dealership may have the "Proceedures" for a "Rudamentary Test" with an "Ohm Meter", but they usually just test by "Swapping" after they are sure there are no "Bare Wires & Bad Connectors". I would check with Salvage Yards for the Module. 1/2 List is common. Have U had the Dist. pulled apart & looked at? While apart, ck. the bearings applying side to side pressure. If U see or feel movement it may be enough to effect problems of timing & running, especially when starting.   John

I just ckd. Auto Zone P/N RB-133 Module = $320.00....P/N 31-396 Dist. = $142.00  Both with Limited Lifetime Warranty is not bad price, but it's best to eliminate everything else First. On the 6 pin connectors to the Module, there should be Voltage or Resistance measurements with key on & off that U should be able to make. U may get them from Dealer or a Good Manual. These are fun cars but I would invest in the necessary Tools & Books to keep it up.   John